Page Two of How Sweet It Is
If your budget doesn’t permit these ice wines, there are others that may be less authentic — the grapes are frozen after they’re picked — but they’re also considerably less expensive. At Washington’s Pacific Rim winery, Riesling rules (see www.rieslingrules.com). Here self-described “Riesling fanatic” Randall Grahm is devoting himself to wines made from this noble varietal. Grapes for his Vin de Glacière (2006, $18, 375 ml, 9% alcohol) are hand harvested and then frozen. With scents and tastes of candied apricot, pear and orange blossom, the wine goes well with crème brûleé or fruit tarts. Another marvelous ice wine — think lichees, apricots and tropical fruit —- made in the same manner is Israel’s Yarden Heights Wines Gewürztraminer (2004, $24, 375 ml, 12.5% alcohol) from the best grape-growing area, the Golan Heights, in Israel’s best appellation, the Galilee.
The Sauternes region in Bordeaux is dedicated to sweet wines made mostly from sémillon blended with sauvignon blanc. The grapes must be afflicted with the benevolent botrytis fungus, which concentrates the sugar and liquid. They’re finicky, requiring just the right degree of humidity, and the whole process is labor intensive. But the results are divine. Castelnau de Suduiraut (2001, $40; 2003, $30; 14% alcohol), the second wine of the illustrious Château Suduiraut, is well priced and luscious. Serve with almond, apple, apricot, lemon, mango, peach, pear and tropical — well, just about all — fruit desserts, cookies and crème brûleé. Sauternes and Roquefort cheese is a classic combination.
The question every wine writer will take to her grave is what wines are best with chocolate. Brachetto d’Acqui, one of Italy’s best kept secrets, is certainly one of them. With flavors and aromas of strawberries and raspberries, this fizzy, light, versatile, aromatic red wine from Piedmont beautifully complements dark chocolate, as well as Amaretto and holiday cookies and fresh fruit and other fruit desserts. I recommend Coppo (2006, $12, 375 ml, 5.5% alcohol) and Rosa Regale (2006, $14, 375 ml, 7% alcohol).
Another excellent choice with chocolate is sweet Banyuls, a wine fortified port-style. from the Languedoc region in southern France. It’s what the French call a vin doux naturel, or naturally sweet wine. Made mostly from an assortment of Grenache grapes, Banyuls must be at least 50% Grenache Noir. Reminiscent of black cherries and blackberries, Les Clos de Paulilles (2005, $26, 500ml, 16% alcohol ) is an excellent choice.
Port, Portugal’s flagship wine, is traditionally paired with chocolate. Some ports suit many other desserts as well. Although 48 grape varieties are permitted in port, touriga nacional, tinta barroca, tinto cão, touriga francesa and tinta roriz are considered best. Port, a fortified wine with about 20% alcohol, is made in several different styles, with three being best known.
Ruby is nonvintage, young, simple, fruity and inexpensive. One of the most popular in the US is Fonseca’s Bin No. 27 ($18), technically a step up, a ruby reserve. It’s a fine match with milk and dark chocolate and berries and cherries and desserts made with them.
Tawny port, the most versatile style, has the most finesse. Aged in wood casks, the wine looses its bright ruby color and becomes — you guessed it! — tawny as it mellows and gains a nutty character. Here’s your wine for pecan and pumpkin pies. Tawnies are also lovely with crème brûleé, and caramel, nut, banana or coffee-flavored desserts. Try Delaforce’s His Eminence’s Choice ($22), a 10-year old, or Taylor-Fladgate’s 10- or 20-year-olds ($32, $54). (Half bottles of Taylor’s 10-year, 20-year, 30-year and 40-year Tawnies have been assembled together in a boxed collection called A Century of Port. At $225 it’s a splurge appropriate for the season.)
Vintage port, perhaps best known but only 2% of all ports, is a blend of the best wines of an outstanding year. It’s generally produced two or three times a decade and is capable of aging for decades. Naturally its the most expensive. The velvety 2003 Croft will continue to evolve but is fantastic now if you like your port big and full-bodied ($82). Other vintages to look for include 1997, 1994, 1992, 1985 and 1977. Sip vintage port on its own, with pears in red wine or with chocolate desserts, like molten chocolate cake. Stilton cheese and port is a classic combination. Opened rubies can keep up to 5 to 6 weeks, tawnies up to 10 days (although some say months), vintage two to three days.
I hope you will enjoy these dessert wines as I do, and include them in your wine selections all year long.
Return to Page One of How Sweet It Is<<
Award-winning author and certified sommelier Sharon Kapnick has written about food and wine for many magazines, including Time, Portfolio, Food & Wine and Hemispheres, and many newspapers, thanks to the New York Times Syndicate. She contributed several entries for the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America.
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